On Sunday I saw a thought-provoking article in the latest issue of Il Venerdì di Repubblica magazine…
The Barolo-Truffle feud
The gist of the article is that the Barolo regulations have always stipulated that only the Nebbiolo grapes grown on the best sites, a.k.a. the south and southeast aspects of the hills inside the denomination can be used to make Barolo. But now that the climate warms up, the grapes on the north aspects of the hills can also mature perfectly. Time for Barolo to expand. The official association plans to amend the regulation to allow the northern aspect vineyards to grow Barolo grapes. However, it’s been opposed by the truffle industry because if the northern aspects, many of which are forests, are converted into vineyards, the truffles growing in woodland soil will disappear, harming the interests of the truffle industry. But truffle industry operators emphasised that they were not only concerned about their own interests, but also the forest ecosystem being wiped out by a single crop – grapes, which would eventually risk biodiversity in that area.
In this regard, one of the winemakers vented that they worked hard to grow grapes and make wine to keep the cultural heritage of Piedmont while the truffle industry did nothing (implicating that digging truffles from the soil was easy money compared to growing grapes and making wine).
Interestingly, not all wineries echoed that winemaker’s view. The owner of Fontanafredda Winery, where I’d interned back in 2022, was opposed to opening up the northern aspects, his reason being there was no scientific evidence yet proving the quality of grapes grown on those sites up to the Barolo standards. He also addressed the importance of biodiversity.
Barolo and white truffles are the most heavenly food-wine match in the world (according to a book I read; I haven’t tried it myself yet). But under the table, things can’t be more different.
If you asked me, I’d say I’m also opposed to opening up the northern aspects, because the global wine consumption is declining. The demand is just not there. Also, to attract young people to the wine world won’t take a wine like Barolo.
Still, I can understand the very motivation behind this proposal: rather than expanding Barolo, it’s fairer to say that the northern aspects replacing the southern ones will be the trend in the future. The fact that the climate continues to warm will one day turn the south and southeast aspects not suitable for viticulture at all. If the northern aspects are not opened, Barolo will one day disappear from the planet.
What’s your view then?
First time meeting Brachetto
One day before, Saturday was a day full of good wine and friendship.
In the morning, I had a picnic with my friend in a park in north Milan. We opened a Vareij 2021 by Hilberg Pasquero (HP) Winery. This wine had my friend at hello when she visited HP last month. She bought it to share with me.
HP was no new name to me. For a while I’d had quite a few of their Nebbiolo stocked in my home. Not long ago I tasted their 2006 Nebbiolo. The smoked plummy flavour countered by bright acidity, very delicious. I just took a sip after a sip after a sip. Couldn’t stop. I prefer their Nebbiolo to many Barolos.
When my friend told me what she’d bought was not a Nebbiolo, my guess was Barbera. I looked up the name and found that it was actually 85% Brachetto and 15% Barbera. I was all the more interested.
My impression for Brachetto had always been a sweet sparkler. Not a fan of this wine style, I’d never tried a Brachetto. But now with HP, a winery highly regarded by me, making a still, dry Brachetto, it felt more exciting than a new planet being discovered by some scientists.
The pleasant violet aroma was sensed as soon as the bottle was opened. The fruity flavours, the body and tannins were all light, perfect for the summery 27 degrees on that day. Whatever grape variety or wine style it is, HP Winery is capable of making it so palatable that a bottle can be finished in no time, which happened on Saturday.
Sangiovese in a clovey tornado
In the evening at a friend’s, he brought to the table a Sangiovese from Terricciola near Pisa. This friend loves heavily barrelled reds. No surprise that this Sangiovese had been barrique-matured for 24 months. I’ve nothing against the barrel flavour, as long as there’s enough fruit concentration balancing it out, not letting it dominate the overall wine flavour, I’m fine by it. But when I taste a wine where the barrel flavour eclipses all, it’s as if a smoke and clove (typical barrel characteristics) tornado is taking shape on my palate, but at the centre of the storm where the core fruit flavour must be sensed solidly, nothing’s there. Hollow. This is how I felt when I tasted this Il Presuntuoso. And the clovey storm even lingered in my mouth long after the wine was no longer there.
Even so, I was happy to see my friend enjoying the wine with full satisfaction. His willingness to share his cherished wine with us was far more important and precious than if the wine had pleased my personal taste.
Charming Timo
To the friend’s house, we brought a Timorasso by Claudio Mariotto Winery. This piemontese green grape variety produces wine with a floral, peachy and mineral bouquet, similar to that of Riesling. Timorasso does have decent acidity, only less edgy than its Riesling counterpart. Timorasso also comes with a fuller-body and a warmer mouthfeel. If Riesling is a teenager who receives good upbringing and education, when reaching middle age, what this youngster will have grown into is something of ultimate charm like Timorasso.
I adored this Pitasso. Relieved to know that we still had a few more at home.
