How is wine made?

First of all, wine is made from grapes. A good harvest of healthy grapes make decent wine. Not-so-healthy grapes make mediocre wine. Simple as that.

How is wine made? 葡萄酒是怎麽釀成的?
Nebbiolo vineyard, Serralunga d’Alba (photographed in 2022)

Eurasian v.s. American

The grapes we are talking about here mostly belong to the Vitis vinifera family – the Eurasian species. Why? Simply because they make wine that tastes better. A relatively small amount of wine is made from the American species, such as Vitis labrusca and Vitis riparia.

Under the Eurasian species umbrella exist thousands of grape varieties, two of which are Riesling and Sangiovese. Riesling is the most widely grown white grape variety in Germany, while Sangiovese is the most prevalent black variety in Italy.

Destemmed or Whole-bunch

After the grapes are harvested, the clusters (if hand harvested) or the berries (if machine harvested) are sent to a destemmer to, obviously, be destemmed. But in some case you may prefer keeping the stems, especially when the grapes are hand harvested as whole bunches, believing they can add texture and more nuance to the wine.

Stems being discarded from the destemmer (filmed in 2026)

With or without the stems. the grapes now undergo gentle pressing to release juice.

pneumatic press 氣壓式壓汁機
Gentle pressing by a pneumatic press (photographed in 2024)

White/Orange/Red/Rosé

If you’re making a white wine, after the pressing, the white grape skins will be removed, for the resultant wine to achieve a lemony yellow, pretty much the exact colour of the flesh. While if what you’re making is a skin-contact wine, also known as orange or amber wine, after the pressing, the skins will stay in the juice through the fermentation to have the pigment on the skins extracted. This pigment tends to give the wine an orange/amber tinge.

orange wine 橘酒
Orange wine has nothing to do with the citrus fruit (photographed in 2023)

In the case of black grapes, to make a red wine, after the pressing, the skins, which give the colour, will definitely be kept with the juice throughout the fermentation. On the other hand, if you’re making a rosé, depending on how pale or deep you want the pink colour to be, the skins can stay in the juice for a few hours to a few days. The most extreme example is to remove the skins right after the gentle pressing to extract a faintest hue of salmon pink as in the making of a Provence rosé.

Provence rosé 普羅旺斯粉紅酒
The unmistakable Provence rosé pink (photographed in 2024)

Commercial or Ambient

It takes fermentation to turn grape juice into wine. Fermentation takes yeast to occur. The yeast used can either be bought and added to the juice or existing naturally in the winemaking environment or on the surface of grape skins. The commercial yeast can assure a more consistent and uninterrupted fermentation, while the ambient yeast can give the wine a more unique character. There’s no right or wrong, no better or worse. It is entirely up to what you aim for and believe in.

Chemistry in the vat

During the fermentation, aroma and flavour compounds are being extracted. And in the case of orange and red winemaking, colour and tannins from the skins are also being extracted.

In addition to alcohol, fermentation also creates CO2 and heat. Therefore, good ventilation in the winemaking room is crucial for the wellbeing of the winemaking crew.

stainless steel vats 不鏽鋼釀酒桶
The towering stainless steel vats (photographed in 2023)

Fermentation mainly takes place in stainless steel vats, because they are easier to clean, but concrete vats, concrete eggs and wooden barrels are also widely used.

built-in concrete vats 嵌入式水泥釀酒缸
Built-in concrete vats (photographed in 2023)
concrete egg 蛋形水泥釀酒桶
Standalone concrete egg (photographed in 2025)

The length of fermentation depends on when all the sugar in the juice is consumed by the yeast and turned into alcohol. Or if you wish to make a sweeter wine, you can end the fermentation earlier by either chilling the juice, filtering out the yeast or adding SO2 to deactivate the yeast.

When the fermentation ceases, grape skins, in the case of orange and red winemaking, are now removed from the wine. However, you may even choose to keep the skin in the wine way after the fermentation for maximum extraction of tannins, texture and flavours. Again, it’s up to what style of wine you’re after.

Malolactic and Lactones

During the fermentation or during the rest after the fermentation, if you increase the temperture of the wine, malolactic conversion (MLC, some call it malolactic fermentation, MLF) can occur. This is to convert the tart malic acids into rounder, softer lactic acids. When MLC does not take place automatically, you may inoculate lactic bacteria into the wine to make it happen.

MLC is usually a must-do in red winemaking, to smoothen the mouthfeel, as in red wine, not only are there tart acids, there are also harsh tannins. MLC tends to be more optional in white winemaking. A buttery Chardonnay from California is a typical example of MLC being switched on in white winemaking.

Maturation, quick and slow

Depending on the desired style, you may clarify and bottle the wine straignt away after the resting phase or you may mature the wine for a period of time, long or short, in stainless steel vats, concrete vats or wooden barrels.

Among all the wooden barrels, oak is the most commonly used. Newer oak barrels with a lower toasting degree can release oak lactones into the wine, giving it a sweet note such as that of coconut, vanilla or baking spices.

oak barrel maturation 橡木桶培養
The 228L oak barrels are known as barrique (photographed in 2023)

Not only does post-fermentation maturation take time, it also takes up the space in the cellar for as long as the wine is matured. For example, by law, a Barolo cannot be released to the market until it’s been matured for 38 months. This makes the cost of making a bottle of Barolo easily higher than making a bottle of early-drinking New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

New Zealand Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 紐西蘭雲霧之灣白蘇維濃
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2022
grapes harvested March/April 2022, released to market October 2022, tasted June 2023
(photographed in 2023)

After the maturation, you may now clarify, bottle and release the wine to the market.

Sarmassa, Marchesi di Barolo 巴羅洛侯爵酒莊單一園Sarmassa
Cru Barolo “Sarmassa” 2010, Marchesi di Barolo
grapes harvested October 2010, released to market January 2014
tasted October 2026
(photographed in 2026)