Name explained: Restori is an Italian surname; osteria a tavern, less formal than a ristorante, serving traditional local cuisine.
Located in the village of Borgotaro in Emilia Romagna, Osteria Restori sits right on the top of a hill, overlooking the valley from their outdoor seats. But the day we went there, the outdoor area was not open yet. We were still on the nippy side of the spring.
Alessandro, the owner of Restori, recognised us immediately. Last summer, we’d come here for the first time through the reference of two friends. It felt like yesterday.
Alessandro had the same messy hair and silver earrings; same hospitality he greeted us with. After my short stint at a restaurant at the end of 2023, my respect for Ho.Re.Ca. people has grown stratospherically. His kindness and warmth now carried a much deeper meaning to me.
As usual, a charcuterie with Gnocco Fritto to start. Gnocco Fritto, doughs deep-fried in lard. The use of lard in cooking had been brought down to the Italian Peninsula by the Lombards from the north after the Roman Empire collapsed in the 5th century A.D. Gnocco Fritto was born after that, a genetically 100% northern dish.
The wine we chose was a Vermentino-based orange wine from Prima Terra in Cinque Terre. Vermentino is a green grape variety widely grown in Italy and France, where it’s called Rolle instead.
3 days of skin-on maceration to achieve this orange colour. Maturation on lees for 9 months post fermentation to add more complexity. Honey, lily, black tea, olive, caramel and salinity on the nose; on the palate I felt nano-bubbles, medium to high acidity, full-bodied, slightly tannic and honey and olive flavours dominating with a long finish. Sniffing the empty glass out of curiosity, I got a surprising seaweed kick, packed with umami-ness. The wine was delicious, but with 13.5% ABV, after just one glass I was entirely blushed.
My main course was snails with mashed potatoes, enriched with olive oil and butter. The tomato and mustard seasoning balanced out the grease. Now I get it if appearing elegant is one of the reasons why the French are keen to eat snails because the snails were so tender it required almost no chewing. Next time in a restaurant when I see both snails and octopus on the menu, I think I’ll go for the former for appearing elegant’s sake.
By the way, the snails had totally upped my appetite for the wine. So I had some more.
My dessert was dark chocolate ganache layered with Zabaione topped with Amaretti. I saw chocolate in the description and ordered it without thinking, completely forgetting that the Zabaione contained alcohol. It only dawned on me when Alessandro mentioned “Marsala” when he presented it to me. It was too late.
My plan to divert myself from alcohol with the dessert was a flop. The more Zabaione I ate, the heavier my head felt. Hard to enjoy it wholeheartedly. Pity for such a lovely dessert!
Next time I’d like to have this dessert again without ordering wine. But not ordering wine at Restori is just not possible. You’d know what I mean when you saw their wine list there with your own eyes.
At the cashier, in a chitchat, Alessandro said the cost of food had been soaring due to the inflation in the past few years. “But I can’t put up the price like many other restaurants do because where we are is not a touristic place.”
But he immediately went on, “But I’m passionate about what I’m doing.” And his heartwarming smile showed again.
To book a table at Restori, call +39 333 544 6777
